• 25Jan

    You are a privileged participant in historyIf any of you, my loyal readers, have taken the time to read Ecclesiastes (in a reputable English translation) you know that a popular phrase of that book is that "there is nothing new under the sun".  And while that may have been true for 99% of human history, I would like to humbly submit that in the modern age, we do indeed experience new things that have never been seen before.  One such thing that I would like to share some thoughts with you about is: seedless fruit.

    As I was finishing my lunch today (which consisted of a plate of rice, some curry beef, some cream of chicken soup, two pieces of bread, and the item which inspired this post) I peeled my orange and discovered, to my delight, that it was seed-free.  It was a seedless orange.  This orange had no hope for contributing to the reproductive process of further orange growth.  It was a genetic dead-end of an orange.  And it saved me the trouble of having to awkwardly spit the seeds out of my mouth in front of my co-workers.

    Seinfeld does a very funny routine about seedless fruit which I will not repeat here, but I will admit that it came to mind as I went through the process of removing my orange peel and pulling off any tiny bits of that white-ish stuff that connects the peel to the flesh of the fruit itself.  I then started thinking about how, in all of human history, I am of the first generation that has lived to enjoy the experience of eating an orange without the detriment of having to spit out seeds (or worse, accidentally swallow one and start choking).  This thought astounds me.

    I am not a great figure of history (yet), and still I am one of the privileged few who do not have to spit seeds out when eating their fruit.  Every great personage of the past – Martin Luther, Albert Einstein, Gandhi, Queen Victoria, Joan of Arc, Genghis Khan, St. Augustine, Julius Caesar, not to mention Jesus and everyone he met – had to spit out the seeds when they ate a piece of fruit.  From the highest king to the lowest slave, seed-spitting was an activity common to all.  But not for me.  No sir – I, and those of the modern age, have left the seed-spitting past behind us, and have moved forward into a whole new, genetically altered future.

    I have become so accustomed to the joys of seedless fruit that if I find a seed hidden in what I had expected to be a fully seedless produce item, I actually get upset.  I don't throw a tantrum or anything, but I feel as if I had somehow been cheated out of a larger piece of happiness that could have been mine, had I not found that seed in my fruit.  And yet, in this one act of expelling a fruit seed from my mouth, I join in the community of seed-spitters, both great and small, that stretches back from this era of history to the dawn of mankind (and fruitkind) itself.

    My point is this: Seedless fruit – If you should find a misplaced seed in there somewhere, think of the billions of great leaders who have gone before you who lowered themselves to the act of expelling such seeds from their mouths, and appreciate your unique blessing in being offered the opportunity to partake in something that truly is something new under the sun.  I bet you'll never look at a seedless orange the same way again.

    Posted on Sunday, January 25th, 2009 and filed under Thoughts
    4 Comments
  • 19Jan

    Does this man look worried about his marriage?  Or the weather?Back when I was a utility meter reader, I had two major concerns in my life – What was the weather going to be each day, and who was I going to marry?  The first concern stemmed from the fact that I worked outdoors for up to 7 hours each day, while the second concern stemmed from my need to take what I saw as the defining step into true adulthood.  I learned to cope with weather issues, usually by utilizing appropriate clothing.  And while appropriate clothing certainly enters into the equation of finding a healthy long-term relationship, I tended to deal with my marriage concerns by indulging in long hours mind-numbing worry, interspersed by slightly fewer hours of complaining about my singleness to my friends.

    Here in Qatar, where I work indoors and remain happily married, these concerns have (thankfully) been left behind.  However, as I spoke to my students this morning about both the weather and marriage, I wondered how my anxiety levels might have been different had I been raised in the climate and culture of Qatar.

    Let's deal with the weather first.  Most of the time Qatar is hot.  Very hot.  Imagine hell (temperature-wise), but with more shopping malls and construction.  That's what the average Qatari is used to when it comes to weather.  So during the winter months, when the temperatures hover in the teens (celsius, of course), the Qataris think that it's wonderful.  I myself was very happy when I felt my first "cool" breeze here, sometime in October or November.  But I have to admit that January nights (and sometimes mornings) can be cold enough to be slightly uncomfortable.  

    This morning it was about 11 or 12 degrees as I was walking across campus, and the sky was completely covered in clouds (a situation that happens rarely here – I can count on one hand the number of cloud-covered skies I've seen since coming here).  Generally, Larissa and I enjoy the sun (especially the afternoon winter sun, when it's 19 or 20 degrees outside) and we expected that most of the human race would share a similar opinion.  Not so, I discovered today.

    When I was talking with my students this morning about why some people were late or absent from class, they said that on days with wonderful weather like today, they would like to skip school and spend it outside.  I looked at them and said "You realize that it's only 11 or 12 degrees out, and the entire sky is cloudy!" "Of course, teacher," they replied, "This weather is perfect!  Nice and cool, and no hot sun.  We even like to go swimming in the sea on days like today!"  I couldn't believe it.

    But what affected me more was the conversation we had after class.  I'm not sure where this came from, but three of my students decided to ask me what the deal was with wives and girlfriends in North America.  They didn't understand how a wife and a girlfriend are connected to each other.  Do you have a wife and a girlfriend on the side?  How many can you have?  They wanted me to explain it. 

    So I drew some diagrams on the board about how relationships progress in North America, and tried to relate it to what I understood the Qatari experience of romance to be.  I said that you start out as strangers, and then become friends (sometimes, but not always), followed by dating, engagement, and marriage.  I also explained how most couples in our culture like to live together for a while before marriage, which astounded my students.  This led me to explain about the differences in North American social and behavioral norms over the last century, and how culture has changed to become more accepting of non Judeo-Christian rules for romantic encounters.  

    My students found it hard to accept the idea of dating someone, breaking up, and then dating someone else.  I'm guessing that the idea of having your heart ripped apart several times during one's dating experience did not seem very appealing to them.  I have to say that their perspective has some merit.  They also were amazed that our culture would permit people to live together and have sex before marriage.  In Qatar, that sort of behaviour would be grounds for imprisonment, and possible execution.  Foreigners engaged in this sort of behaviour would probably just be deported.

    My students also asked me about having children.  Did I have any?  How many did I want to have?  Why did I wait so long to have children?  In their minds, the longer one waits to have children, the harder it will be to relate to them or have the energy to properly raise them.  If you're past 25 years old and do not have children, you've done something wrong.

    I told my students that Larissa and I will have our first child sometime in the next couple years, and that we'll probably have 2 or 3 at the most.  "Why so few, teacher?" they asked.  In their culture, 3 children is considered a small family.  5 or 6 children would probably be average, while 10 children is not as rare as you might think. 

    I said that I would have been happy to have had children when I was younger, but that it just took me this long to find a good wife.  "Why so long, teacher?" they said.  "Well," I said, "It takes a while to find someone who you can connect well with, and even then, there's no guarantee that she will like you in the same way.  It takes time to make it work.  And I had some growing to do before I was ready to be married," I said.  They had a hard time understanding this.

    "Teacher, we don't understand.  What's the big worry?  When it's time to get married, your family will introduce you to someone, and if you get along, you get married.  If not, you say no.  Why so complicated?"  I explained to them that in my culture, you're pretty much on your own when it comes to meeting someone and making things work.  There's no real support system or matchmaking team behind you in the process.  It takes a while to meet someone, get to know them, and then be sure that you're making the right decision to marry.

    In Qatari culture (as far as I understand it), a young man will get married at 20 or 21, when he's finishing up his schooling.  His mother and sisters will scope out a good potential marriage choice from their social circles and introduce the young lady to the young man.  These two will have a series of supervised social interactions over the course of several months, and if they both like each other, the marriage takes place a few months later.  The entire process of meeting, getting to know each other, getting engaged, and getting married takes maybe 6 months at the most.

    Before I came here, I was under the impression that marriages here were all arranged by the family, and while it's true that the rest of the family is far more involved in the courtship process than they are in North America, I was told that if either of the potential marriage partners are not happy with the match, the courtship is canceled and another candidate is sought out.  Another interesting twist is that for most of these young people, meeting their potential spouse will most likely be the first time they have spoken with anyone of the opposite sex outside of their immediate family.  Just the wonder and curiosity of interacting with a boy or girl for the first time may be enough to cause a significant emotional bond.

    I have to say that in some ways I envy the Qatari way of matchmaking.  I literally spent years in paralyzing anxiety, worrying about who I was going to marry.  These Qatari men don't even think about it until they're 20 or 21, and then most of the work in finding someone is taken care of.  All they need to do is approve or disapprove.  There's no searching, no pick-up lines, no dating websites, no drunken regrets, and no game-playing.  Some might argue that there's no love either, but it seems like the process allows enough time for the seed of love to develop, and then plants it through marriage so that it can grow in a committed context.  As long as you have a good family who has the best interests of the potential spouses at heart, it seems like a system with many advantages. 

    Of course, it may be that people find themselves pressured into a marriage before they're ready, or because the family wants the union more than the "lovers" themselves.  But that's not to say that the chances of success are any lower than in North America.  Plenty of people chose their own marriage partners, only to find themselves in a loveless or abusive relationship.  The benefit of the Qatari situation is that the family is seen as an extended resource, not just for helping create the marriage, but in helping to maintain it as well.  It's a completely different mindset which I admire, but which would be impossible to import into modern North American culture.

    I'm very happy with my marriage to Larissa, and I'm glad that we took the time to get to know each other and to grow as individual adults before we were married.  However, sometimes I wish that I had spent my twenties worrying less about relationship issues, and more about the weather.  Here in Qatar, most people don't seem to be too worried about either.

    Posted on Monday, January 19th, 2009 and filed under Marriage, Qatar Living
    2 Comments
  • 10Jan

    A belt not unlike this one is eating my belly hairAlright, I have to throw this thought out to the world, because I can't imagine that I'm alone in this, but I've never heard anyone else mention this particular problem.  Here's the setup:

    Like many other men who have gone through puberty and who don't emasculate themselves by shaving anything other than their faces (or possibly their heads), I have a decent crop of hair across my belly.  I don't think I'm abnormally hairy in this regard – I've noticed the hair distribution on other male bodies, whether in TV or movies, or when subtly comparing myself to others in a public change room.  Like most others, this hair starts at my chest, sneaks down to the belly area, and eventually joins up (via the "treasure trail") to the body hair found in the southern regions.

    Now that you all are visualizing territories of my body that you never had any intention to mentally explore, here's the next part of the mix:  I own a few pairs of truly comfortable jeans, and while they generally fit me well in all the right places, I find that I often need to wear a belt while doing anything but sitting, so that my jeans don't slip down and provide more fodder for temptation than a Christian boy should be displaying. 

    How do these two factors come together?  I'm glad you asked.

    Today I was doing some work around the house – some bathroom scrubbing, light dusting, and basic tidying.  I tend to work with my shirt off, for two reasons.  One, if I'm working hard (which admittedly doesn't happen as often as it should) I can get hot, and having the shirt off cools things down a bit.  Two, if I'm cleaning in a room that has a mirror, I can put in some flexing time.

    I also happened to be doing my housework while wearing a pair of my comfortable jeans, and since I was mobile, I put on my belt so that I could clean with both hands, instead of having to use one to hold up my pants.  The problem is this:  When I bend over, my belly ends up being pressed against the belt area of my pants, and as I straighten back up, belly hairs often get caught somehow in the buckle area and painfully tugged-at, or yanked right out.  And cleaning often requires a lot of bending over.

    Now, I know what you're all going to say – "Why don't you just clean the house in pants that don't require a belt?  Or no pants at all, for that matter?"  To which I would respond "You have a good point," and then promptly take off my pants.  Makes you thankful that we're not having this discussion in person, eh?

    But solving the problem is not why I'm writing this – I'm writing this to find out if other men find themselves in the same belly hair and belt situation as me.  I'm just looking for a little solidarity here, guys.  Because trust me, Larissa cannot relate to this situation, nor would I want her to.

    Posted on Saturday, January 10th, 2009 and filed under Rants
    1 Comment
  • 09Jan

    Sitting in our van for the 10 hour drive to AnkaraI'm combining Days 11 and 12 of the Turkey trip into a single post, since these days were largely travel days, and not a lot happened.  We got up early on Day 11 to pack up our stuff, grab some breakfast in the guesthouse common room, and load everything into our rented van.  We said our goodbyes to Memet and the other staff, sad that we had to leave them behind, but happy to be heading toward home.  And of course, just as we were leaving Selçuk, the weather turned clear and sunny.  I guess the rain gods figured they had sufficiently paid Larissa and I back for spending so much time in a desert country.

    Highlights of the drive home included napping, bathroom breaks, snow-covered mountain roads in several places, and my getting to World 5 on Super Mario Bros. for the Nintendo DS.  At Eric's insistence, we stopped for lunch at the same Burger King that we had stopped at when we were driving to Selçuk several days earlier.  They had a deal on for two different kinds of chicken burgers, two fries, and two drinks, all for about $8.00.  I picked that deal up, gave the extra drink and fries to Larissa (who bought her own burger), and polished off the two chicken burgers for myself.  They were not bad – pretty much exactly what you expect from breaded chicken burgers at a fast food restaurant.

    We noticed some writing in Turkish on the paper that lines the Burger King food tray, and were curious as to what it meant.  The writing accompanied a picture of the Whopper, and we assumed that it described the burger somehow.  Larissa and I could figure out most of the translations, although there was one particular line of text that read "Ҫıtır Ҫıtır GÓ§bek Salata".  Larissa and I decided to ask Hannah-Lee about these words, since she had spent a significant amount of time studying Turkish, and might be able to shed some light on the translation.

    Hannah-Lee said that, as far as she could make out, "Ҫıtır" meant "liver", and "GÓ§bek" meant "bellybutton", while "Salata" obviously meant "salad" or "lettuce".  So the Turkish Whopper had mayo, tomatoes, pickles, onions, ketchup, beef, and some "liver liver bellybutton salad".  

    Obviously something was being lost in translation, so we asked one of the employees to help explain what it actually meant.  It turns out that "Ҫıtır" is actually an onomatopoeic word that should be translated as "crunchy" (or, since it is mentioned twice, "really crunchy").  The second word, "GÓ§bek", did have the meaning of "bellybutton", but it was being used here metaphorically to mean "centre", while we were right that "Salata" did mean "lettuce".  So it was actually lettuce from the crunchy centre-area of the lettuce head.  Curiosity: SATISFIED!

    It was pretty dark as we neared the end of our 10 hour drive back to Ankara.  I stared out the window and looked at the lights of the malls and shops, noting how, no matter what country you find yourself in, the malls are always among the biggest and most expensive-looking buildings.  I also took note of one particular store that we passed signs for several times along our journey.  It was called "Migros", and I noticed that on some of its signs, it had "MM" before "Migros", on some it had "MMM", and on one it had "MMMMM".  I asked Hannah-Lee and Eric about these M's, and they informed me that the more M's, the bigger the store. 

    Since I hadn't seen any "MMMM" (4 M's) stores, I asked them if they existed, or did it go right from 3 to 5.  They told me that there were indeed MMMM Migros stores, and that they had heard about a "MMMMMM" (6 M's) store elsewhere in the city.  Six M's!  I couldn't believe it!  The Five M Migros store already looked like it could swallow a Walmart.  Who needs six M's?!  Six!  What kind of day and age are we living in where someone feels the need to build a six M Migros store?!

    Anyway, we made it back to chez Hannah-Lee and Eric without any problems, and ate some wonderful homemade pizza while watching the movie Once.  Larissa and I had never seen this movie before, but it was very cool.  We're thinking of buying the soundtrack.

    Day 11 ended with packing and setting our alarm for 6:30 the next morning, since we wanted to be showered and ready to go to the bus stop for 8am.

    Yes, we took a bus from Ankara back to Istanbul, where our plane for Qatar was leaving from.  The bus was the cheapest way to travel there (I think it was $10 each or something?), and since it was about a 6 hour bus ride (and our plane left at 6:30pm) we wanted to leave as much leeway as possible.  The bus was fairly nice – about the equivalent of traveling coach on an airline:

    This was actually just before we left Ankara

    They were showing a movie called Astérix aux jeux olympiques, but we couldn't understand it (it was originally French, translated to Turkish, shown without subtitles).  The low point of the bus ride was when the attendant bumped my arm and made me spill some tea in my lap.  Luckily it wasn't very hot.  It just felt like I had wet myself, which is not how you want to feel in the middle of a 6 hour bus ride.

    The bus dropped us off at a huge bus station, which connected with many other buses and train lines.  It was only 2:30pm, and we hadn't been given lunch on the bus (only tea), so we stopped in at one of the many cafes near the bus station and had some "Turkish pizza" (much like the stuff that we ate on Day 5).  The experience was a little surreal, since nobody in the cafe spoke English (including our waiter).  We ordered by pointing, and our waiter kept bringing us free salad, probably because he thought Larissa was cute.  I've said it before, and I'll say it again: Always travel with a beautiful woman at your side.

    Just to show us how much he liked us, our waiter actually walked us out of the restaurant, down the street, and up a staircase so he could point out where the train for the airport could be found.  I'm pretty sure we gave him a good tip.  We hopped on the train (more like an above ground subway), and were at the airport by 3:30pm.  There was plenty of time to kill before our flight, so I spent most of it looking for an electrical outlet, plugging in my computer, and typing up two of the blog posts that you read earlier (Turkey Day 7 and Day 8).  Larissa went window shopping.

    The flight back to Qatar was uneventful, although I did get to watch Star Wars: The Clone Wars (the animated one).  I honestly didn't think it was as bad as I had heard it was.  Having said that, I have no desire to watch it a second time.  Larissa slept for most of the flight.

    We got into Qatar before midnight, and were amazed at how much it had come to feel like home.  As we jumped into one of the many waiting Karwa taxis and made our way back to our apartment, we breathed deeply of the 18°C Doha air and looked forward to being in our own beds for the first time in almost two weeks.  We were back at the apartment by midnight, and soon were asleep – thankful that we enjoyed our time with new (and old) friends in Turkey and grateful for new stories and adventures to share.

    Posted on Friday, January 9th, 2009 and filed under Travel
    No Comments
  • 07Jan

    Day 10 was our last full day in Selçuk before heading back to Ankara, and naturally, it started out grey and rainy:

    How's that for grey and wet?

    The plan for the early part of the day was to head over to Åžirince, a small town that was built on the side of a mountain (or very large hill?) and which specialized in tourist shops, old people, and wine made from fruit other than grapes.

    Locals on a wet street

    One of the first wine shops that we went into pulled out 9 or 10 different flavours and started giving us (small) samples.  While I've never been a big fan of wine, I had to admit that the raspberry wine was too good not to buy.  So we bought some.  We also had Strawberry Wine stuck in our heads for a good portion of the day (yes, I know we didn't buy strawberry wine, but the syllables still fit for the song).  Here's Larissa enjoying her sample:

    We had to drink our whole bottle before going back to Qatar

    Larissa was also enamored by the hand-made soap in the shop down the street.  So we bought some of that too:

    That a lot of frickin soap

    Eric was not interested in soap:

    He was as bored as he looks

    Åžirince was a town with a lot of character.  The outdoor cafes looked like they would have been wonderful, if it hadn't been raining:

    There was a bit of a river running down the road

    But there were some souvenir shops still open, complete with more "evil eye" jewlery:

    We generally don't buy this crap.  Just overpriced carpets.

    There were also a fine selection of "Genuine Fake Watches":

    I was looking for a fake fake watch

    I did not buy a watch, but I was tempted.

    While we didn't see the usual number of Turkish cats in Åžirince, I did come across this tired, cold looking dog:

    I really like this photo

    We were feeling a little cold ourselves, so after spending some time walking (or hiking?) up the steep streets in the rain, we found a shop that was willing to bribe us to come inside with the promise of a warm fireplace:

    It was a VERY nice fireplace

    While we didn't buy anything there, the view from their window of the sitting room afforded me with this shot of the town:

    Foggy

    And this one, which is a little to the left of the one above:

    Less foggy

    When we got up from the sitting room, we walked through several other rooms, down the steepest staircase I had seen since my Nana's house, and into a room that looked like it was straight out of a Resident Evil video game:

    If you've played Resident Evil 4, you know what I mean.

    I stayed on the stairs to take photos, so I actually have no idea what everyone was looking at or talking about down in the scary room.  But I do know that they were ambushed by zombies when they walked out this door:

    Beautiful, but creepy!

    Actually, they were finding a good place to grab some lunch.  Somehow we found ourselves in another ma & pop restaurant, complete with a nice, warm wood stove in the centre of the dining room:

    They had a cat named Charlie

    The stove was very versitile.  Not only did it provide heat by which we could enwarmen our bodies, but it also was used for making toast.  Yes, this is one of the employees toasting bread:

    It was good toast

    This was somebody's lunch.  It wasn't mine, and it wasn't Larissa's, but it was somebody's.  I did eat this in Turkey, just not this particular day:

    A thin pastry with cheese and stuff inside

    This is what I had.  It was pasta and this yogurt kinda sauce.  It sounds weird, and usually I wouldn't like eating this sort of stuff, but it was actually very delicious.  And I gotta say, I love how this photo turned out:

    I think this should photo should be used to advertise this dish

    Larissa had bean soup.  Just bean soup.  Bean.  Soup.  Bleh:

    This was obviously near the end of her meal

    By the time lunch was finished, it was time to leave Åžirince and regroup at the guesthouse.  On the way out of town, I grabbed this shot of a local barber shop.  The place had too much character not to capture on film.  Or memory card, I guess:

    I bet their conversations are hilarious

    After arriving back at our guesthouse and relaxing a bit, a few of us decided to go and check out St. John's Basilica, where John himself is buried.  It was still cold and wet outside, but not too rainy by this point.  Here is a model of what the Basilica looked like between the 6th and 11th centuries:

    It was in a glass case outdoors

    And here's what the place looks like now:

    Knocked down by an earthquake

    If this church were still intact, it would be the 5th largest church in the world today (or maybe the 8th?  Either way, it was big).  During the time of the crusades, the crusaders built this fortress so that they would have someplace to sleep peacefully after a long, hard day of killing muslims:

    Pretty cool lookin fortress, you have to admit.

    And this is John the Apostle's tomb itself.  Unlike some of the other Christian sites in Turkey, it is a fairly accurate guess that this is the actual site of John's burial:

    It's probably not usually this wet

    Just for good measure, I thought I'd take a quick video of the site.  Here it is, through the wonders of YouTube:

    YouTube Preview Image

    When we got back to the guesthouse, we decided to warm up by the stove, and we ended up having some hilarious conversation with Memet, whose job is to pretty much keep people happy all the time.  He's very good at it – his stories, combined with his Turkish accent, were always entertaining:

    He might look less than awesome, but trust me, he was more.

    And because we liked Memet so much, we actually let him take us to his brother's carpet store (despite the fact that we vowed never to talk to another carpet salesman in Turkey!):

    Memet shares his carpet knowledge

    The carpets were very nice, and we felt like we received a true education about how to differentiate between a genuine carpet, and cheap immitations (hint: It involves burning the tassles):

    He only burnt them a little

    In this photo, you can see Larissa and Hannah-Lee giving the carpets a thorough inspection:

    Larissa supervised the inspecting

    The evening finished up with a dinner at what I would consider the tastiest restaurant that we had eaten at in Turkey.  Unfortunately, I can't remember the name of the place, or tell you how to get there.  I only remember that it was within walking distance from our guesthouse, and it was downhill.  It was fairly dark inside the restaurant (mood lighting) so this is the only picture I took that turned out half-decent:

    I had to put the camera on the table to eliminate blur

    After dinner, it was off to bed to get well-rested for the 10 hour drive back to Ankara the next day.  All in all, we enjoyed our time in Selçuk and Ephesus, and would be happy to go back to stay at the ANZ guesthouse again in the future (but during the spring or summer).  Our time in Turkey was now drawing to a close…

    Posted on Wednesday, January 7th, 2009 and filed under Photos, Travel
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  • 04Jan

    We now return to Day 9 in Turkey – exploring the Ephesus ruins, and some other stuff.

    One of the major highlights of the ruins was this building that people call "the Library".  I suppose that at some point in the past there were books (scrolls?) there, but now the only books to be seen are the Lonely Planet guides being held in the hands of tourists:

    I wish we had a Lonely Planet guide

    We read that this structure was actually reconstructed from the pieces found lying around.  We were hoping that it would remain structurally sound as we walked around near it.  After all, it did collapse at least once in the past:

    The in-your-face shot

    Just so you get a picture of the scale of this thing – it was pretty big.  The doorways are at least twice the height of an average person:

    Yes, that's Larissa

    These are the arches that you might have seen on the right side of the first photo of this post.  Who might have walked through these arches in ages past?

    I think the Apostle Paul did.  Seriously.

    I like this photo Larissa took of me standing in front of ancient Latin carved into stone, with the plants sneaking their way through the cracks:

    A rare photogenic moment

    There were several places among the ruins that seemed to be used as "column graveyards".  I guess you can only do so much with hundreds of broken columns:

    Nice landscape, though.

    This theatre was much larger than the one that you saw pictures of in Day 9 – Part 1.  I'm guessing this was for major sporting events or huge public meetings.  There was a Japanese tour group here while we were checking it out.  I wanted to yell "Ikimashou!" (Let's go!) but then I remembered that I'm supposed to be an adult now.  Sigh:

    I never get to use my Japanese.  In Turkey.

    In ancient times, this road led down to the harbour.  However, in modern times, the sea has receded several kilometers, so now I guess it leads to nowhere:

    This road was actually roped off not far from here

    Here's a shot of the large theatre as we were heading towards the exit of the ruins area.  Perhaps the crane in the background will give you an idea of the scale of that place:

    Yup, it was big.

    There was a wide selection of tourist crap just outside the exit from the ruins.  My favourite sign was "Genuine Fake Watches".  The watches looked very cool, but I already have a fake Rolex that serves me well:

    I got mine in China

    After Hannah-Lee and Eric picked us up, we stopped in at a very traditional Turkish restaurant for lunch.  Their specialty was a dish called [Darren forgets completely], which is basically a bunch of ingredients (cheese, meat, maybe some veggies) inside a womb of freshly baked bread.  It is cut into manageable pieces and served fresh from the oven.  These ladies took care of rolling the dough and baking our meals:

    These ladies made us feel like this place was authentic, whatever that means.

    We sat near the back of the restaurant, where the heater was:

    Cool decor, yes?

    As we were eating lunch, it started to rain.  This rain continued for pretty much the rest of our time in Turkey, which was frustrating, because we were hoping to have left the rain behind in Istanbul.  Nevertheless, there was still tourist stuff to be done, and we weren't going to let the rain stop us.  We decided to take care of some indoor opportunities, and headed over to the Ephesus Museum, where most of the important artifacts from Ephesus were displayed.

    I have always been in awe of Roman sculpture, and this bust of Marcus Aurelius did not disappoint:

    Male perms were the in thing in those days

    There were also many statues of this little guy, who seemed to have a third leg or something:

    He needed to get his pants custom made

    And this statue (of Vespasian?) was huge, back when it was fully intact.  Larissa uses her arm to demonstrate the scale:

    The head would look better with the nose intact

    One goddess that was ubiquitous in Ephesus, and whose statues are equally as freaky as the "third leg" guy was Artemis, who was often shown as having far too many breasts than is generally required:

    Nothing attractive about her

    There was a lot more that we saw at the museum, but I didn't take a lot of photos, since by this point we were kinda dealing with "ancient ruins overload".  So we thought that maybe we'd look around at someplace a bit more modern for a while – the covered bazaar in Selçuk.  The bazaar was a lot like the bazaars we had visited in Istanbul, except that it was outside, and most of the stalls had tarps set up overhead to offer some protection from the rain:

    Cereal?

    There was just about anything to be found at this bazaar, although the cold, wet weather made it difficult to want to spend a lot of time browsing:

    Hannah-Lee and Eric are on the left

    The tarps were set up a little haphazardly, and often the water from the rain would drain onto people who weren't paying attention to drainage issues.  Occasionally, the rainwater would pool in the middle of a tarp, and a shopkeeper would have to periodically poke the tarp with a stick and push the water over the side.  You had to be careful to watch out for situations that could get you wet:

    This tarp setup spelled disaster

    By the time we were back at the guesthouse, we were cold, wet, and hungry.  Some time in front of the stove in the common room took care of everything but the hunger, but for supper, we followed the recommendation of one of the guesthouse owners.  He told us about a restaurant that was run by the municipal government, and hence had good food at inexpensive prices.  We decided to check it out, and after our waiter brought us our food, he took this picture of our group where he decided to subtley crop me out on the left side:

    Larissa's food came late

    Larissa and I split an appetizer plate, which had a selection of hummus, a pepper salad, a chese salad, brocolli, and some stuff that looked like salsa, but tasted a little different:

    I would have liked this stuff better if it was served hot.

    My actual meal consisted of ten tiny kababs, rice, salad, and as much bread as you wanted to eat:

    I gave my salad to Larissa.

    We finished off the evening at our guesthouse, talking and reading in the common room, and enjoying the warm atmosphere.  There were more sights to be seen the next day, so we cranked up the heater in our room, and went to bed before 10pm so that we could be well-slept and ready to go.

    Posted on Sunday, January 4th, 2009 and filed under Photos, Travel
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  • 02Jan

    Just hanging out in a ruined ancient cityI'm going to warn everyone up front – this day I took a lot of pictures.  For this reason, I'm going to split up Day 9 into two posts, just so that you're not all overwhelmed.  Well, not more overwhelmed than you usually are by the stunning photographic excellence and mind-blowingly witty writing that are often found on this blog.  I say this sarcastically, of course (it's always better to sound self-deprecating rather than egotistical – still, there must be some reason you keep coming back to this site, right?  Oh – the pictures of Larissa.  That makes sense.  Forget that I asked.)

    The plan for Day 9 was to visit the ruins of Ephesus.  However, before I talk about the ruins, I would be remiss if I didn't mention a few things about sleeping in the room we were renting in Selçuk.  First of all, even though the heater in the room was set to 30 °C, and even though I was quite cozy in our bed, Larissa spent the entire evening curled in a ball and shivering.  She punctuated her shivers with sad whimpers about how cold she was.  I tried my best to warm her up, but whenever I touched her, she was actually hotter than I was!  I'm convinced that it was psychological coldness that carried over from the previous day, but I am not licensed to make an official diagnosis.

    The other aspect of our room that should be mentioned is that the attached bathroom was legitimately frigid.  It was like stepping into a walk-in refrigerator, and touching your bare cheeks to the toilet seat ensured that if you were drowsy before you sat down, you were wide awake as you were taking care of business.  The only relief came from showering, although you still had to clutch your own breasts (in an effort to keep your vital organs warm) as you waited 6-8 minutes for the hot water to kick in.

    After overcoming the "trial of the Arctic bathroom" and getting dressed, we had a wonderful breakfast in the "warm room", which consisted of toasted Turkish bread ("bunny loaf" – you had to be there), cheese, tomatoes, cucumbers, fruit, juice, tea, coffee, and hard boiled eggs.  I stuck with mostly bread and cheese, although I did have some fruit just to keep the pooing consistency manageable (with toilets as cold as ours, you can't afford to be constipated).  With a tasty breakfast inside of us, and after a quick brushing of the teeth, we headed out to the Ephesus ruins.

    As you can see (maybe?) it was grey and cold, but thankfully not rainy (yet).  The scenery in this area is beautiful, and I'm sure some sunshine would have made it look even better.  The green fields and rolling hills and mountains were a nice change from the largely flat desert we were used to in Qatar:

    This is Selcuk as we drove to Ephesus

    As we drove up the side of one of the mountains to the entrance to the ruins, we came across some sheep:

    Their voices sound like people trying to imitate sheep voices

    And also some goats:

    Goats are like sheep, but they go to hell (Matt 25:31-46)

    We would have got closer and taken more photos of them, but a sheep-dog came running down the hill after I took this goat photo and made it clear to us that we weren't welcome.  We respected the wishes of the dog, got back in the van, and kept driving.

    Hannah-Lee and Eric dropped off the rest of us at the entrance, and went back to the Guest House for a couple hours to relax.  They had been here several times already and didn't feel like they had to pay to see Ephesus again.  We agreed to meet them at the far side of the site near lunchtime, paid for our entry tickets, and made our way toward the remains of this once great city of 200,000 people:

    I don't understand paying to see ruins

    As you can see, it was, indeed, still in ruins.  Some kind archeologists had been nice enough to set up some of the columns for us, though:

    They really loved their columns back then

    We were not the only people at the site, and there were several tour groups speaking many different languages making their way through the site as well:

    Yes, that's Larissa on the left

    The first major area we saw was the amphitheater, which had seating for… uh… a lot of Greek and Roman guys:

    I took too many pictures of this place

    I took this picture from the top of the amphitheater, looking back towards the entrance:

    We came in through that top left area

    And this is taken from the same spot, but looking to the right of the amphitheater:

    Maybe some small homes or shops?

    Larissa thought a photo of me might add a sense of scale to this location:

    I think I was telling her to make sure she didn't fall

    I tried my best to visualize what the city might have looked like before it was left to deteriorate, but it's difficult when all of the roofs are gone.  Where did this doorway lead to in ancient times?:

    Probably to the theatre concession stands

    I couldn't resist getting a shot or two of Larissa, since she looked so cute in her winter coat and hat:

    The zoom lens is great for shots like this

    I think this was a fountain, or an alter, or a temple or something.  Looked cool though:

    What's with the random column tops?

    I love the sense of mystery that this photo conveys.  Where does that path lead?  What's through the doorway?

    Here's a hint: more ruins!

    I was fascinated by writing wherever I could find it.  I stared at it and tried to sound it out, wishing that my Greek and Latin were not 10 years out of practice:

    I think it said: Whoever reads this is cursed to have rain for the rest of their stay in Ephesus

    When you encounter streets like this, you start to remember that you're actually walking through an ancient city, not just a small town or tourist resort:

    This street was actually pretty frickin long

    Partway down the street in the picture above was this temple to one of the Roman emperors.  The woman carved into the area behind the main arch is Medusa.  I overheard one of the tour guides saying that she was all the fashion back when this was made:

    This temple has seen better days

    Of course, even in ancient times, people had to sometimes pinch a loaf or drain the weasel.  When such a need arose, they would often come to a public lavatory, such as the one pictured here:

    These toilets were even colder than the one in our guesthouse bathroom!

    I have no idea why there were these two lone archways here, but they made for a nice picture.  Perhaps I should have read the nearby sign more carefully:

    Maybe these were part of an ancient archway exhibit

    Thus ends Part 1 of Day 9.  For more pictures of Ephesus, as well as from later this same day, stay tuned for Day 9 – Part 2!

    Posted on Friday, January 2nd, 2009 and filed under Bathroom, Photos, Travel
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