After we came back from our overnight desert safari, everyone was feeling lazy and a bit too dusty. I myself had to go into work that day, so I showered as soon as we got home and changed into my work attire. Larissa had the day off and stayed at home relaxing with my parents.
I came home in the mid-afternoon, and we decided to spend the later part of the afternoon at the Museum of Islamic Art. This museum was just completed in December, and while Larissa and I had visited it once before, we had only seen about half of the exhibits. This is what you see as you walk up the long walkway to the museum entrance:
Once inside, you are immediately awed by the architecture. The natural light from the ceiling plays off of the geometric designs in a mesmerizing way:
In fact, I would say that the architecture is one of the main reasons to visit the museum at all:
We spent a good hour and a half walking through the various exhibits, and while I would like to show you a good selection of what we saw, the lighting in the museum is often far too dark for pictures to turn out. A flash would have solved the problem, but flash photography is prohibited. Nevertheless, I was able to grab a few (slightly blurry) shots of some of the artifacts.
There was this… uh… jar with legs?:
The style of the design on this jar is actually found on many artifacts in the museum, and we were amazed at the amount of detail that was found on works that were over 1000 years old.
There was a large selection of rugs and carpets, often in miraculously well-preserved condition:
And of course, there were many copies of (or pages from) various editions of the Qur'an. Some were gigantic slabs of writing as tall as a person, and some whole books were small enough to fit into your back pocket. Naturally, we saw normal book-sized editions as well:
The museum closes at about 5:30pm, and by that time we were ready to leave anyway, so we walked 15 minutes back to Souq Waqif (remember it from this post?) and caught a taxi at the Karwa stand which took us to our preferred eatery of the night – Thai Snack.
Thai Snack is a Thai restaurant about a 15 minute walk from our apartment which serves decent food made fast and cheap. Every item on the menu has a picture, so you at least have some idea of what you're ordering. I tried to order the "chicken anus" appetizer (after looking at the picture and confirming with the waiter that it really was the "buttocks of chicken"), but they were all out. I ended up going with my standard pad thai, but I'm going to try the anus one of these days – it was only $1.00 CAD for a whole plate!
When dinner was done, we walked back to our apartment and capped off the evening by watching Slumdog Millionaire on DVD. Love that movie.
The major plan for the next day (Tuesday) was to visit the camel races. Larissa and I put in brief appearances at work early in the morning. Larissa decided to stay home from the races because she wasn't sure if we would be in the sun all day, and due to her not-sweating condition, didn't want to risk losing consciousness suddenly (if you don't know what I'm talking about, feel free to ask me).
The camel races are held at the Shahanniya Race Track, just down the street from the Oryx Sanctuary. For the last half of April, the GCC Emir Races were going on, with 114 Land Cruisers donated by the Emir as prizes for the winners of the major races. I had visited the track before, but had never seen an actual race there, so while I had some idea of what we would see, I wasn't sure about where we would sit or how long the races would be.
Eric, one of our favourite and most trustworthy drivers, picked up my parents from my apartment and then came directly to the college campus to grab me from work at about 1pm. We arrived at the race track just after 1:30, and the first race was already underway. There were no bleachers or official seating areas – some people were just standing at different places around the track watching, but most of the Qataris would follow the race from their Land Cruisers. Maybe I should explain how this all works –
The race track itself is 5km long and is just dirt and sand. It isn't a circle or oval, but it twists and turns throughout its length until you end up at the place that the race started from (almost – the track actually ends around the corner from the starting line). On either side of the race track, however, is a paved road several car-widths wide. For the duration of each race, the spectators drive on either side of the track on these paved roads (in their 4×4 vehicles) and follow the camels from start to finish. Here are some of the Qataris getting ready to follow the next race:
Since we didn't have a 4×4 vehicle, we weren't able to follow the camels on the track, so we stood at the starting gate and watched the beginning of a few races:
As you can see, the camels all line up behind the tarp, and when it's time to begin, the tarp is hoisted up by a motor and the camels are pulled, pushed, and yelled at to start running.
There used to be jockeys riding the camels, but since this was feeding what was essentially a form of child-slavery (the jockeys were often children as young as 8 who were forced into the sport), they now use robot jockeys, which look like small boxes on the back of each camel. These robots have what looks like an antenna attached to the side of the box, and when the camel owner (who is driving beside their camel during the race) wants his camel to run faster, he presses a button and the antenna thing swings quickly around and whips the camel's butt. They can also yell at their camel remotely through a speaker on the robot.
After watching the starts of a couple races, we walked to the other side of the starting gate and noticed some Qatari men watching the race itself on a small TV they had set up. The Al Jazeera Network was broadcasting the race live, and so we watched the rest of the race we had just seen the beginning of on the TV.
As the race was ending, an older Qatari gentleman stood up and started speaking to my dad. He asked my father if he would like to drive in his van to watch the race. My dad, thinking that this man was trying to sell us his services, asked him "How much would it cost?", to which the Qatari man replied "No cost! Free! I have special ticket for inside lane!" Naturally we took the man up on his offer, and the next thing we know he is calling over his driver and instructing him to let us ride in his van for as many of the races as we like.
We jumped into the van (which could hold about 15 people) and took a separate row each (we had the whole thing to ourselves). Even Eric (they guy who drove us to the race track) got to come with us. We ended up driving in the inside lane of the paved road on the left of the track, which was usually only reserved for the vehicles with the TV cameras and the race commentators. We were so close to the action that I could have spit on the camels, if I had been so inclined (which I wasn't). Here were a couple of the camels in action:
And in this picture you can see the whipping tool that's attached to the robot jockeys:
We ended up watching three full races in the van, and were amazed to be treated to such a privilege. Incidentally, if you're wondering how fast the camels run, we were pacing them at about 40 kph. Also, when they run their lips flap around a lot, and they often have foam coming out the sides of their mouths (it's hard to tell in these photos).
After seeing the three races, we figured that we shouldn't abuse the hospitality of the van owner, so we thanked the driver, and got out. We looked all over the place for the owner of the van to thank him, but we couldn't find him anywhere. Hopefully the driver expressed our gratitude to him. It was also really great that Eric got to experience the races with us, since he's lived in Qatar for many years, and had never had the opportunity to see a race for himself.
After we got home, Larissa and my mom went out to get some henna done. You may remember that Larissa got henna-ed back in October (see this post), and we thought that my mom might enjoy the experience as well. They had a great time with the henna artist (a lady who works out of her own home) and the girls came home a few hours later to show us their body-art. Here is the design on one of Larissa's legs:
The evening ended with a visit with our friend Jane, who lives upstairs, and the watching of our weekly episode of Lost, which Jane gets with her TV package and we do not. Though my parents haven't been following Lost like we have, I like to think that they enjoyed watching it with us, and if they didn't, they were polite enough not to show it.
The next (and final) day of my parents' visit was not particularly eventful. Larissa and I each had full days at work, and my parents had to spend some time packing to go home (their flight was leaving at midnight that evening). The only noteworthy event of the day was when we decided to go to the Applebee's near our apartment for dinner. There is one waitress there who has served Larissa and I every time we eat there (and who remembers us each time she sees us), so Larissa asked the hostess if this waitress could serve us when we were being seated.
It turns out that our waitress was actually just finishing her shift, but she did come over to our table and talked with us for about 20 MINUTES until she had to go home! She is incredibly bubbly and friendly, so we didn't feel put out by her – in fact, it made the entire evening much more memorable than it would have been otherwise. The other waitresses and the hostess kept coming over to our table to try to compete for our attention, and at the end of our meal the waitress who was actually serving us brought us our favourite desert for free (because we had become celebrities, I guess!) It was a great way to cap off the end of my parents' time with us.
At about 9:30pm, Eric came to our building once again and picked up my mom and dad to drive them to the airport. We said our goodbyes, gave our hugs and kisses, and waved at them as they drove down the street. We truly felt like we had had the perfect visit with them – one week was neither too much time nor too little. And best of all, they had not one, but several once-in-a-lifetime experiences to take home with them and share with their friends, just as I've shared these experiences with you.
Greetings friends, acquaintances, and lurkers. It's been a little while since I've posted, mostly because I have a whole pile of photos from Dubai (from over a month ago) that I've been sitting on and waiting to write about, but every time I think about doing so, the task seems too overwhelming. So if you want to see pictures from our time in Dubai, I advise you to check out
We hired a cleaner recently, due to Larissa and me (a) being too lazy to regularly clean our apartment, (b) fighting every time we discuss cleaning the apartment, and (c) wanting to support the lower-income segment of this culture a bit more. So we pay a nice Sri Lanken fellow named "Sathi" about $30 per week to do our dusting, vacuuming, and floor cleaning on Mondays.
Our preferred laundering establishment is only about a 5 minute walk from our apartment, but I realized on the way that I didn't have enough cash on hand to cover the bill, so I walked past the laundry place to the bank several doors down. I arrived at the bank to discover that the ATM was out of service, and the bank itself was not open. So I ended up walking a couple blocks further to the ATM near Doha Clinic. At this point I realized that this unplanned distance was going to cut into my "getting ready for work" schedule, so I backtracked a bit more briskly to the laundry place once I had my extra cash in hand.