Before I came to Qatar, I would never have imagined the possibility of seeing world-class tennis being played live. Mostly because I don’t care very much about tennis. However, after having come to Qatar, I’ve had the opportunity to see many international sporting competitions. Synchronized diving, for instance. Also, gymnastics. And horse-jumping. No, I don’t mean people jumping over horses – I mean horses jumping over fences and poles and stuff. I’m sure it’s called something other than “horse jumping”, but as I am too lazy to look up the actual name on Google, I’m sticking with “horse jumping”.
But why am I talking about horse jumping? What I really want to talk about is tennis. So, this past week there was a major international men’s tennis tournament in Doha, featuring many famous tennis players, such as Federer, Nadal, Davydenko, and that dude from Serbia (Viktor something?) Actually, the only reason I remember the names of those four guys is because those were the four guys we watched play in the semi-finals last Friday night.
But why am I talking about last Friday? What I really want to talk about is last Saturday, when I decided to go to the finals to see Nadal and Davydenko play for the.. uh.. whatever you win when you with this tournament. Is it a cup? I know there’s a chunk of money involved. Maybe you get money and a cup. And a camel? Maybe a camel, folks. This is Doha, after all, and they really like camels here. I have this funny story that involves some of my students secretly watching camel videos on their mobile phones during class one day.
But why am I talking about camels? What I really want to talk about is what happened to me on Saturday – the day I almost didn’t get to see the tennis finals, but did. Mostly.
It all started several days earlier, when the staff at CNA-Q (that’s where I work) received an email saying that we could get into the tennis tournament for free if we showed them our CNA-Q staff ID at the gate. The free seats were not amazing – they were actually fairly high up in the almost nosebleed section of the stadium. But here’s what made them good: they were free.
When we went to see the semi-finals on Friday night, getting into the stadium was no problem – we simply showed our ID badges, and off we went. In fact, it wasn’t even limited to CNA-Q staff – anyone who was with us (employees or not) was able to get in with us too, as long as they were with someone who had an ID badge. Larissa and I spent Friday evening enjoying two wonderful tennis matches with our friend Tatjana and her friend Jia Yu, who is the political secretary at the Singaporean embassy. She told us her job is to “talk to people at various government functions and then write reports about it” for her government. Honestly.
Wow, now I’m talking about Singapore. Seriously, I’m trying to write about tennis on Saturday. Forget about Friday, gentle readers – this post is about Saturday.
Saturday was the day of the final match, and Larissa had decided that she was going to stay home that evening (something about her being pregnant or tired or something, I can’t remember right now), so I decided to go on my own. I had an errand or two to run at one of the gigantic Doha malls (which happens to be fairly close to the tennis stadium), so I went to the mall first. I purchased two things at the mall: one, a prepaid phone card for Larissa’s mobile, and two, a box of about 500 nails and thumbtacks, which Larissa wanted so that she could hang a calender in the kitchen. She actually just wanted one nail, but you can’t buy just one nail. You have to buy 500. Why am I talking about buying nails? It’s actually relevant to the story, if you can believe it.
When I had completed my purchases, I hopped in a Karwa (that’s a taxi, for those of you not familiar with Doha public transportation options) and made it to the tennis stadium in about 5 minutes. This was about 4pm, and the match didn’t start till six, but I thought it started at five. That’s actually not super relevant to the story, but I want you to be able to imagine the whole story as I tell it. So, 4pm, I’m at the stadium, not too many other people around, there I am.
I hadn’t eaten dinner yet, so when I saw that there was a Quizno’s nearby (the first Quizno’s that I had seen ANYWHERE outside of Canada) I had to go and try it out. Their sandwich selection was not quite up to Canadian levels (no Chicken Carbonara sub, dang it!) but it was much better than the competition (honestly, people STILL pay money for Subway?! Even after they did away with the stamps you could redeem for a free sub?!) So I ate my Qatari Quizno’s sub (Spicy BBQ Chicken – very tasty), watched the end of Minority Report (it was playing on the TV in the restaurant – good movie!) and made my way to the stadium entrance gate.
When I got to the gate at about 4:30, there were (understandably) few people there, so I walked right up to the gate attendant and flashed him my CNA-Q ID badge. He smiled at me and politely said “I’m sorry sir, no more college people today.” What?! I had received an email – direct written correspondence – that I would be able to get into every tennis match with my ID! What, my friends, was the deal?! So I said to the guy “Why?” He said, “The match is sold out. No free tickets today.”
Now, the average person would have given up right then and there. No tickets, no way to get in, right? But, my friends – this is Qatar. The land where you can get anything by knowing the right people and/or exercising your sharply-honed negotiation skills. So I asked “can I talk to someone else about this?” “Sure!” I was told, “You can talk to Mr. [insert name I forget here] when he comes over.” “Is he going to come soon?” I asked. “Probably not – he’s really busy tonight,” was the reply.
Undaunted, I decided to wait it out. After all, I was friends with people who had made it into several VIP-type functions and locations in Qatar using only their confidence (and possibly their good looks) to aid them, and some of those people were coming to tennis that evening. I just had to hang around for a bit, hope that I bumped into such a person, and ride their confident, good-looking coat tails into the tennis final.
By this time I had figured out (or overheard) that the game didn’t start till 6pm, so I had over an hour to see if some sort of plan could come together. I figured my odds of getting in were about 50/50, which is not bad considering I had been flatly turned down by security, and was hoping to bump into one of 4 or 5 influential people in a sea of potentially 7000 tennis spectators. I decided to narrow my odds by calling Tatjana to see if she was coming. Turned out she WAS coming, and she was bringing 2 friends of hers who were on a 10 hour layover on their way to Spain and were waiting for their plane to leave at 1am. I told Tatjana that they weren’t accepting our school IDs for admission. She said they were coming anyway. I like that confidence!
In the meantime, a crowd of about 15 other disappointed CNA-Q employees (as well as several of their friends and family) had gathered outside the entrance gate and were complaining about our revoked free-entry privileges. As our numbers grew, some of the organizing officials started to get antsy and came out to talk to us, lest we form a disgruntled mob and storm the stadium entrance in a last-ditch effort to see free world-class tennis.
We were told that “an email was sent to the college yesterday telling them that the free passes were canceled.” Come on! Who checks their work email on the weekend?! (remember, Friday is part of the weekend in Qatar – also, when I went back to work on Sunday? NO EMAIL!) We were also told “perhaps we can get Mr. [insert another name I forget here] to come an arrange something for you,” but it never happened. As Tatjana arrived at 5:30 (with her Spanish friends in tow) most of the disgruntled CNA-Qians had decided to either pay for tickets or just grab some food at Applebee’s, and abandoned the entrance gate. At the same time, long lines of ticket-holders were making their way into the stadium, staring at those of us who thought we could get in for free, and wondering why we looked so unhappy at a tennis match.
By 5:50pm, Tatjana, myself, and the two Spaniards (who really wanted to see the match, since the one dude – Nadal – was actually Spanish!) decided to give up and try to find a way home. As we walked across the stadium grounds, I mourned the fact that we were not sufficiently confident or good-looking enough to weasel our way into the match. I think Tatjana teased me about this as well. Which didn’t help my confidence much.
But wait! What’s this? Tatjana had just caught the eye of a 40-ish Qatari man who was wearing some sort of official-looking pass over his perfectly white thobe! Suddenly I heard her telling him, “Yeah, we had been invited to watch tennis tonight, but when we went to the entrance gate, they wouldn’t let us in!” The Qatari man said “Just a moment, I’m waiting for my driver to pick up my children” (there were 3 young children playing at the feet of this man). Within a minute, a Land Cruiser pulled up and the children were hustled into the car. The man then turned to us and said “Follow me.” Like the disciples on the shore of Galilee, we obeyed these words and followed him, in the hopes that our future would be made a little brighter!
We were taken through the security check at what looked like the VIP entrance (no lineup of ticket holders) and made to pass through a metal detector. I guess tennis players are pretty high profile targets these days (?!) It was as I reached into my jacket pocket that I remembered that I was carrying a box of 500 nails and thumbtacks (see? I told you they were part of the story!) Honestly, who comes to a tennis match and has to pull a box of 500 nails and thumbtacks out of their pocket as they pass through security? Me, that’s who.
With Tatjana shaking her head at me as if to say “Dude, really?! Really. Dude!”, I handed the box of tiny, sharp, threatening objects to the nearby security guard. Our Qatari patron told me to make sure that I came back to that gate after the game to pick them up. I sheepishly nodded and continued to follow him towards the stairs to the seating area. At this point, I was pretty sure that a blog entry was going to develop.
We were told to wait at the bottom of the stairs while our new Qatari friend talked to some people on our behalf. After about 10 or 15 minutes, he returned and said to us, “I wasn’t able to get you into the box seats, but I have been given permission to escort you to the seating area above this section. Just take any empty seats that you want.” I would have kissed this man, if it was socially acceptable. Now that I think about it, it completely IS socially acceptable for a man to kiss a man in this culture, but I had just met the guy, and I didn’t want to overdo it.
We followed him again as he led us past several security people (“These people are with me!”) and up to the seating area. We were one level up from the box seats, and one level down from where we sat the night before. And we got in for free. Thank you Qatar, and your semi-easily bendable rules regarding admission to high-profile events!
By the time we got in it was 6:15, which was fine, because the match didn’t actually start until about 7 or 7:30 (funny how I can’t remember the exact time – if Dave Lapsley were with me I would ask him, because he always remembers stuff like that). We were about 5 minutes into the first game when I realized that I had to go to the bathroom. I hadn’t actually peed since I left my house, which was well before 3pm. Tennis matches often last 3 full sets, and each set requires that a player win at least 6 games, so it looked like I might have to hold it for a while.
“But Darren,” you may ask, “Why couldn’t you just get up and use a public toilet in the stadium?” To which I would reply that there are 3 reasons why I could not. First, stadium toilets, people. Nuh uh. Second, in professional tennis matches, they don’t actually allow people to walk around (or even talk) while the players are playing. You have to wait till a game ends before you can get up from your seat OR go back to your seat, if you already got up earlier. And third, since we were let in for free, we had no ticket stubs, and there were people checking ticket stubs every time you entered the seating area. I was stranded.
So I held it. For a long time. I could almost feel the urine backing up from my bladder into my kidneys, but I had waited so long to get into this tennis match that I didn’t want to blow it now.
Then tennis itself started to taunt me.
In the second set, Nadal and Davydenko were so evenly matched that they each won 6 games, and had to play a tiebreaker game. Then, even in the tiebreaker game they were matching each other point for point. 3-3, 4-4, 5-5, 6-6. It was like the tennis gods were saying to me, “I’m going to draw this game out as long as possible, just to test the limits of your leg-crossing ability!” Finally Davydenko got two points in a row, and the set ended. And so did my patience.
By this point, Tatjana and her friends were both feeling pretty chilly (it got down to 19 degrees that night, which might not sound that cold, but for some reason felt like it) so we all decided to skip the last set and head home. But not before making a quick stop at a nearby restaurant to use the bathroom. Actually, first I had to stop at the gate and pick up my nails and thumbtacks. But even before THAT, I called our driver-service and asked them to send two cars – one for me, and one for Tatjana and her friends.
The thing was, usually it takes about 20 minutes for the drivers to show up, but by the time we had made it out of the stadium, used a bank machine (we needed money to pay the drivers) got my nails and thumbtacks, and walked over to the restaurant, the cars were arriving. Tatjana and the two Spanish women (did I mention they were women?) all went to the bathroom themselves, but I noticed the drivers there AFTER they went into the bathroom, but BEFORE I used the bathroom myself. So I had to wait even longer for them to come out so that I could tell them that their driver was there, and where he was parked.
But the girls took so long in the bathroom that by the time they came out, I couldn’t keep my driver waiting any longer, so I quickly showed them their car, ran into my driver’s car, and told him to get me home quick because I hadn’t peed since 2pm (and it was now well after 9).
Well, you’ll all be happy to hear that I arrived at home with dry pants, although I ran straight into the bathroom as soon as I opened the front door. Peeing never felt so good, let me tell you. And that, my friends, is how I spent my Saturday.